If you're wary of getting smothered by the sheer mass of Beijing or Shanghai, try studying abroad in Xi'an. Heaven for history enthusiasts, this diverse city has prestigious universities, a thriving Muslim quarter and some terracotta warriors you may have heard about.
INSIGHT FROM THE INSIDE
"Xi'an has a very good atmosphere compared to places like Shanghai or Beijing," says Mark Vranicar, who has lived in Xi'an for three years and blogs at markschinablog.blogspot.com. "Xi'an is also a very manageable city. It's big, but not sprawling." Mark further opines, "From the old Muslim men in white kufi skull hats to the Buddhist monks that I occasionally see on my walks to work while passing the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, there is a lot of diversity within Xi'an."
Universities
Xi'an Jiaotong University is a research-oriented university with a focus on science and engineering. International students following the Chinese language program have the opportunity to pursue elective courses, including calligraphy, Chinese music, cooking, paper cutting and more.
Northwest University, the oldest university in the region, provides small language courses, usually around 15 people. Supplemental classes, such as ancient literature, martial arts and politics/diplomatic relations, provide insight into Chinese culture.
A night on the town
Catch the Tang Dynasty Dinner Show. It's a little bit of Las Vegas mixed with with a 1,000-year-old tradition--plus you get a dinner of delicious dumplings. If tickets are sold out, stay with the Vegas theme and head to the Big Goose Pagoda's north square for the evening show of Asia's largest light and music fountain.
Eat this
You like lamb, right? You'll fit right in Xi'an, where the signature dish is Yang Rou Pao Muo, or lamb soup. The Muslim quarter also has tasty lamb kebabs. But don't worry. You'll still find plenty of noodles and steamed dumplings to be had.
Sites to see
If you study in Xi'an, or even just pass through, you're sure to visit Pit No. 1 and the rows of stunning terracotta warriors who guard the mausoleum of China's first emperor. Notice the faces: each is unique. Together they reflect the diversity of the emperor's subjects--something mirrored in Xi'an even today. The warriors deserve their fame, but the Grand Mosque, an intriguing mix of Islamic and Chinese artistry, is underappreciated. Part of the fun is shopping in the Muslim quarter around the mosque before or after your visit. Don't miss the persimmon pastries ("shizi bing").
If you're looking for a little exercise, rent a bike and take a lap around Xi'an on the old city wall. Need fresh air? Hike Hua Shan, one of the five sacred mountains of Taoism. If you're really daring, start the hike at midnight and arrive at the top in time for sunrise. It's not for the faint of heart--or those prone to vertigo--but it is truly beautiful.
Weekend trip
Take the night train to Pingyao, a UNESCO world heritage site. This amazingly intact traditional Han city from the 14th century is touristy, it's true. But step off the main drag and you'll be swept back centuries. The view of the city from the south gate wall is especially nice.
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