Study Abroad in Chile

“No,” I said firmly, but with a smile, “No.” My Chilean host mother responded with complete silencio, followed by the most crushing look of disappointment as she retracted my plate full of cooked octopus and onions from the place mat in front of me. My stubbornness was sucking the life from the room and in my first week of life in Concepción, Chile, that was not the effect I had hoped to have. In a futile attempt to smooth things over I gently added in my broken Spanish, “I’m sorry but I don’t eat the fish with the eight legs.” She gave me a look of reproach and said quietly, “Why are you such a frog in un pozo?” Baffled at first, I skimmed my Spanish/English dictionary to discover that un pozo means "a well." Shamefully, I realized that what she had meant was that I was being close-minded, that it was as if I were a tiny frog, trapped and unable to see further than the walls of my mental “well.”

After that scolding, I decided against the persistent warnings of my wary stomach and reclaimed my plate. As lunch continued, I made myself a quiet resolution through the labored mastication of that miserably chewy, sponge-like, tentacled flesh. From then on out I knew that no matter what events awaited me in my time in Chile, I did not want to be the frog in the well. Caution is one thing, but what is travel if not the chance to be completely immersed in a different way of life, even if that immersion includes the consumption of things we had never even considered food prior to seeing them on our plates?

The good thing is that the choice to study abroad already proves that most of us are trying to jump out of our wells. We want to see what else is out there and we want to experience it first-hand, not solely through magazines and Travel Channel specials. The unilateral world view that plagues so many Americans is slowly broadening. Now, we do not want to read primary sources; we want to be them.

But once that decision has been made we are left wondering—what is it should I do next to prepare? The answer to that is simple—research. Find out about your new home country’s foods and customs. Learn about their history and their national holidays. All of this has plenty of practical applications. Perhaps if I had known all about all of unique creations that the coastal-dwelling Chileans concoct with fish, I would not have been so vague when I told my host family that I liked seafood.

After my arrival, I was quick to realize that life in Chile is not much different than life in the United States. People did not stop living when I got there and they have kept on living since I have left. Aside from a few idiosyncrasies like lighting a pilot each time I wanted to shower, throwing used toilet paper in the garbage bin aside the toilet because of the poor plumbing system, seeing stray dogs everywhere, and the fact that everyone was speaking Spanish around me—my life proceeded as well. I still woke up every morning, went to class, learned dirty words and funny idioms from my Chilean friends, ate empanadas, went out dancing, and even watched Papi Ricki and other Chilean television shows with my host family. All that was necessary was a willingness to adapt and to become involved in the lives of the people around me so I could be a part of how they live.

Travel became central to the experience. Nearly every weekend I would travel with other students from the program to different parts of Chile and neighboring Argentina. We visited fjords, glacier lakes, sleepy beach towns, lunar landscapes and vibrant cities like Santiago, Valparaiso, Buenos Aires and Mendoza. Other weekends I stayed in Concepción and did things with my Chilean family and friends. We went to the local rodeo, had a big Sunday lunches with all of the extended family and spent time playing paddleball on the beach.

Wherever the situation, whatever the landscape—the key is to be open to exploring. I never would have thought prior to my arrival in Chile that I would climb an active volcano or visit the bottom of the American continent and swim in the frigid Strait of Magellan. But now it is impossible to imagine not having done it.

As the program came to a close, I decided that I was neither satisfied with my level of fluency in Spanish nor my all-too-short three months of adventure. I needed more. I set up a leave of absence with my home university, checked web postings for English teaching jobs, sent resumes to multiple institutions, and waited for responses throughout the summer. As it was next to impossible to find teaching jobs over the summer because it was vacation time, I did not start getting response emails and interview requests until nearly the end. Once the employers began contacting me it became apparent that one of the most essential pieces to selecting a work place is to visit the site and make sure that the terms of your employment are clear. Not only was it beneficial because I could see what I might be getting into, but also because the chance of getting hired increases greatly if you are already present and knocking at potential employers’ doors.

I eventually settled in Viña del Mar, Chile with a six-month volunteer preschool teacher position. The job provided for room and partial board but no monetary compensation. When funds began to run low and I searched for alternate sources of income and put an advertisement for English classes in the local Sunday paper. Much to my astonishment my phone rang constantly for next two weeks. A simple and easy trip to the local newspaper office granted me steady classes for the next five months. I was even contracted to translate a love letter for a Chilean man who had become enamored with an American woman whom he had met over his summer holidays. At first I declined, worried that I would not be able to effectively translate his Spanish, but after his persistent reassurance I gave in, realizing that it was still the willingness to try that is the most important in all of this.

Even more astonishing was the life at the Preschool that tried me in things I had never dreamed of. I was teaching cartwheels and Ballet, ceramics and painting, and reading and writing to Chilean kids aged 2-6 in an English-immersion setting four days a week. That experience provided me with the day I realized that I had finally internalized my own credo of avoiding the "frog in the well" syndrome. As Africa was the topic of the month in the science room, I was asked by the head teacher to incorporate some of its culture into my gym classes. So after a little Internet research and some informational videos I pumped up the volume and taught them everything I knew about Afro-Brazilian dance. While my moves were novice at best, the experience taught me that if I can get a group of 3 year olds to shake their bodies in unison to tribal dance music, I can do just about anything.

When you boil it down, studying and working abroad are about trying different things and molding your world view to incorporate the beliefs of others. Making funny language mistakes, eating interesting food, and possibly getting the chance to swim in the Strait of Magellan or translate Chilean love letters are just part of the bargain. We were meant to adapt; the truth is that leaving home is the hardest part of it all.

Study Abroad in Helsinki Summer School as a Mature Student

Valdet Tairi (Macedonia), Audrey Henderson (United States) Carolina Villar (Brazil) – at the farewell party for Helsinki Summer School participants at The Club in downtown Helsinki.

I knew as soon as I stepped onto the marshy patch of ground that I was in trouble. I can’t fall down. I just can’t fall down. I commanded myself silently. PLOP! Fortunately, the saturated grass provided a soft landing, so the only injury I suffered was to my pride.

“Let me help you,” said Mihai, one of my classmates, chivalrously extending his hand.

“I’m fine,” was my brusque response. I was determined not to let my advanced age betray me as incapable of navigating the course with everyone else. I righted myself, and had A-L-M-O-S-T regained my bearings, when PLOP! I found myself on the ground again.

“Audrey, let me help you,” Mihai insisted. “You fell down a sinkhole.”

I looked down to find that it was indeed true. So I wasn’t just an infirm old lady who couldn’t manage an ordinary outdoor field hike. I also had not been the only one to have fallen victim to the same fault in the ground.

So I was helped to my feet, continued to navigate the soggy grass, and fortunately, did not fall again. The day was highlighted by a fresh air picnic for lunch, and after the fastest shower of my life, followed by a bus and tram trip into downtown with a classmate assigned to the flat down the hall, a homemade, authentic Italian dinner (prepared by two Italian classmates!) at my instructor’s cozy flat.

This was but one of several field trips undertaken by my class, entitled Planning a Growing Urban Region, one of a dozen held during August 2007 as part of the Helsinki Summer School program. The program is an international summer study intensive, conducted in English and targeted toward graduate level students, with a few advanced undergraduates and professionals sprinkled in for variety. Our class was conducted by the Network for Urban Studies, a cooperative of the University of Helsinki and the Helsinki University of Technology.

The Helsinki Summer School Program

The Helsinki Summer School program began in 2000 as the contribution of the University of Helsinki to the European City of Culture project. From 2001 to 2004 the program was administered by a consortium of nine universities of Helsinki area (listed below). After an evaluation in 2004, the program was reorganized with a new administrative model and outsourcing service with the nine participating universities.

In 2007, more than 300 students from 50+ countries around the world were enrolled in a dozen courses included in the program, with course credits issued in ECTS (European Credit Transfer System) generally varying from 4 to 8 units per course. Most were in their 20s, with a few in their 30s. Then there was me, the grand old lady of the program, although I was to learn later that there was another participant even older than I, although we never met.

Although the course in which I had enrolled was directly related to my work in community development and research in housing related issues, and was only a short-term intensive program, the cost represented a severe strain on my finances, as I received no assistance whatsoever. The program did offer scholarship funds, but an application would have required a recommendation from my advisor, which I knew would hardly be forthcoming, as I had not been in residence for several years.

Seizing the Opportunity

I also felt painfully self-conscious about my age. At several points before I actually boarded the plane, I questioned the wisdom of my decision to take on a study abroad program in my 40s. At 47, I knew I would be older than most of the other participants, and steeled myself for that. I was not prepared, however, to discover on the first day of class that I was even older than the main course instructor! Had I been aware of this fact before my arrival in Helsinki, I might very well have decided not to make the trip after all.

The opportunity for study abroad had not been available when I was younger. In high school, as an undergraduate, and even in my earlier years as a graduate student, there was simply no money in the budget for such “frivolities” as study abroad. In the past, I had told myself that I would undertake study abroad “later,” and when “later” finally arrived; I decided that I was too old.

However, a profound loss earlier in the year sealed my decision to finally pursue what had been nearly a lifelong desire to experience life outside my own culture, at least for a short period. On of my very best friends, someone I had known since I was a teenager, had been suddenly struck down and died from Lymphoma aged only 48 years. The shock removed the cliché from the realization that life could be taken from us literally at any time.

Although my friend was taken much too soon, he had at least had the opportunity to realize most of his life’s desires and ambitions. I, on the other hand, had not. So I was determined to follow through with this, no matter what, and that was that.

I wasn’t particular about where I went. I did, however, have a number of constraints which limited my options, finances being the overriding consideration. I could neither afford nor justify a long-term program. Language was another limitation. Although I speak and write reasonably well in French, I had not studied the language for two years, and as a result I did not feel confident in my abilities to take on coursework in French. I also hoped to find a program which provided accommodations for its participants. Finally, I was hesitant to undergo a series of immunizations or a visa application–again because I was taking on this endeavor on my own, and did not want to make a critical misstep which would come back to haunt me.

I had learned about the Helsinki Summer School program some years earlier from an acquaintance who had emigrated to Finland from Germany. He had not attended the program himself, but was aware of it, and mentioned it as an option when I had made an offhand comment about my desire to study abroad.

The loss of my friend had triggered the recollection, and I decided to investigate. I began by examining the Helsinki Summer School website, which proved to be a rich resource not only about the program, but about Helsinki as well. I learned more through email inquiries to the staff. The program proved to be made to order for my needs and preferences. I submitted my application and was accepted. I also received an assignment in an efficiency flat in a section of Helsinki called Pihlajamäki which was private, as well as less expensive than the shared-room hostel accommodations downtown. This choice proved to be significant–as I truly became a resident, rather than a visitor, for the duration of my stay in Helsinki.

Academically, I was well prepared. The reading and the course requirements were challenging, and the schedule was rigorous, running the equivalent of a full work day, five days per week, with a break for lunch. Still, there was nothing involved that I could not handle, having executed all the stages of a rigorous graduate program up to and including completing a draft of a doctoral thesis.

I was also gratified to see that I was not the only participant in the program with dark skin. In retrospect I should have realized that particular fear had been groundless. Although there are not many black people in Finland, Somali émigrés and refugees actually comprise one of the larger group of immigrants to Finland. In and around Helsinki especially, I was but one of a diverse mixture of residents and visitors, and never encountered an incident of racism.

As a woman, I also felt secure traveling alone and after dark, although in early August especially, dark does not come before 10 or 11 p.m. local time. Of course, as in any urban area, it is wise to keep one’s wits about oneself. Still, Helsinki is a very safe city, including public transit, which is clean, fast and punctual.

Socially, however, I was completely at sea. Although I am told that I look younger than my years, I do have visible gray hair, and I felt inhibited in making overtures to my much younger counterparts, especially the men. I did not want to be perceived as forcing anyone to humor the weird old lady when my company really wasn’t desired. I especially didn’t want to give the impression of making unwanted romantic overtures. One of my few regrets was that I allowed these self limiting attitudes to put a damper on my extracting the full measure of the rewards to be gained from the experience.

For instance, I sat out a number of the social activities, simply because I convinced myself I would be conspicuously out of place. Granted, many of the programs were geared toward the typical study abroad participant of conventional college or graduate student age. However, many others were not.

For their part, my instructor, my fellow classmates, the program staff and even participants from other courses, were nothing but welcoming. I was never made to feel out of place. That notion was generated strictly within myself. Fortunately I did manage to participate in a number of the social diversions offered, and enjoyed each of them tremendously.

I have never been much for organized tours, and especially those which seemed to incorporate the local population as colorful backdrop to the tourist experience. I had also never understood the mentality of Americans who insisted on eating at Mickey D’s or associating only with other Americans while they were abroad. Why not just stay home?

Living in Helsinki

While in Helsinki, I found myself fully immersed in daily life, which meant learning to navigate the city on my own. As I have absolutely no sense of direction, I was lost nearly every day of my visit. However, invariably, someone would see the confused-looking black woman puzzling over a map and politely inquire “Could I help you find something?” My guides ranged from a very distinguished looking lady in her 60s to a teen with spiked bright red and purple hair to a heavily tattooed man In his late 30s, all of whom spoke good to excellent English, and each of whom smiled broadly in response to my declaration of “Kiitos!” (Thank you.)

Grocery shopping was also an adventure, as I soon learned to choose foods I recognized, either fresh fruits and vegetables, or clearly labeled meats and familiar brands, a surprising number of which had made the transatlantic journey to Helsinki, even if the labels were translated into words I didn’t understand. I soon surmised that this must be what illiteracy is like.

The summer school staff was also extremely friendly and helpful and the university facilities were excellent. Each summer school participant received a library account, discounted meals at various university cafeterias, computer privileges and a 200 page photocopy allowance. The summer school staff also provided a great deal of practical advice, such as recommending the purchase of transit cards for unlimited rides for the duration of our program.

The transit cards proved to be especially useful for those of us staying in Pihlajamäki, as the per ride fares would have been much more expensive over the course of the program. The transit cards provided the bonus of being valid to cover the fare for the ferry to the world-famous fortress on Suomenlinna Island. The students in the program were encouraged to explore Helsinki on our own, and even to take excursions to Tallinn and Stockholm, each of which was only a ferry ride away. Unfortunately, my budget did not allow for these excursions.

Helsinki Summer School Activities

The entire Helsinki Summer School program was a rich and varied buffet. Rather than being chained to a desk in an endless maze of windowless cubicles, or trapped in regimented rows with stacks of papers and books and forced to endure endless droning lectures, our days were filled with interactive presentations and discussions, and punctuated by field trips in and around Helsinki, guided by subject matter experts and knowledgeable locals.

The mishap described at the beginning of this essay occurred during an all-day class excursion to a development in progress on the outskirts of Helsinki. The purpose was to observe the guiding principles of urban development in Finland in action. This venture, along with other out of class trips, was a vital element of our learning. Seeing the developments and neighborhoods for ourselves provided experiences which would have been impossible to duplicate strictly within the classroom.

The day had begun, as all class days did, with the daily bus ride from my flat in Pihlajamäki to the Central Railway Station, smack in the midst of downtown Helsinki. Fortunately, I had met up with Stefanie, one of my classmates who was also staying at Pihlajamäki, on the trip into town, because I had no clue how to navigate from the railway station to the bus station where we were to meet our fellow classmates for the longer trip out to Espoo. With her guidance, I made it to the rendezvous point in good time.

After the bus ride, we embarked on foot from the highway across still undeveloped fields. After some hours of walking, we made our way to a mixed income development, where social (subsidized) housing was seamlessly integrated with much more affluent developments. There we enjoyed our open air picnic, then more walking, another break for coffee and cake, with a presentation on a particular social housing project by a resident. More walking, then a ride on the subway back into downtown, with an invitation to meet again in two hours at our instructor’s flat, which was located close to the tram line 15 minutes or so from the railway station.

Nearly everyone wanted a shower after what had been an enjoyable, but long and physically strenuous day. However, while the majority of our classmates were staying in the hostel located downtown, those of us assigned to Pihlajamäki were a half-hour bus ride away. Still, I needed a shower, so, along with Valdet, a neighbor from a flat down the hall, I made the trip back to Pihlajamäki.

“I’ll come by to pick you up in 15 minutes,” Valdet declared as we left the elevator on the hallway leading to our respective flats.

“FIFTEEN MINUTES?! “ I protested. “No way!”

“Yes,” he insisted. “We have to. It will take us close to an hour to get to Kaisa’s place and I don’t want to be late.” He was right, especially given the fact that neither of us had actually been to Kaisa’s place, and were therefore not entirely sure how to find it. But I had never showered and changed in fifteen minutes in my life, and especially not after having had such an arduous day. I wanted a nice, long soak in a hot bath. It was not to be. Twenty minutes later (and I was grateful for the five minute slack), there was a knock on my door, and Valdet and I were off.

Social Life

At Kaisa’s place, we were entertained by her adorable blond toddler and welcomed by her gracious husband, who seemed to take having more than twenty visitors in their comfortable (but not especially large) flat absolutely in stride. Two of our Italian classmates, Johanna and Graziana, treated our palates by preparing a variety of delicious authentic pastas and sauces, with assistance from other classmates recruited into the enterprise and accompanied by good wine and beer.

On the last day of class, again invited to Kaisa’s place, we surprised her with a T-shirt imprinted with a class photo and featuring the flags of all the participants in the class. In turn, Kaisa treated us to flutes of Cristal.

Kaisa Schmidt-Thome, the course instructor, wearing the T-shirt we gave her on the last day of class.

That night, all the summer school participants were invited to a farewell party at The Club, a downtown Helsinki nightspot. Again, my first instinct was to pass, especially since I could use the time to pack, and then to sleep before the long return trip. But I was persuaded to begin packing early and sleep on the plane.

I made my appearance at The Club at about 10:30 p.m. local time. The party was just getting underway. The venue was packed and the music was loud. Still, I heard my name even before I stepped inside. Mihai was standing just outside the door.

“You found it!” he said with a teasing smile. By this time my misadventures with finding my way around Helsinki were infamous.

“I did,” I replied with a grin.

Inside, the packed room, an open seat miraculously appeared and I was invited to sit with a group of my classmates and Kaisa, our class instructor.

“I’m so glad you decided to come!” Kaisa declared. I was glad, too.

Hearing the assorted charming accents, each clamoring to be heard over the pounding bass, were like music for me. Although nearly everyone spoke English (it was the only language we all had in common) I was one of the few persons present for whom it was a native language.

Study Abroad in Ecuador—Learning Spanish in Quito

Street parade in Quito.

Welcome to Ecuador

“It’s part of Ecuadorian culture,” Jois said. “Get in there.”

Jois was my Spanish teacher and “in there” was a massive rectangular corral where an angry bull chased around two drunken clowns who had just held the bull down and poured beer into its mouth. She sat with her hand resting on a pregnant hump of belly, fanning away the heat with a piece of cardboard. We watched the spectacle below from bleachers built of decaying scrap wood tied together with bandanas. They creaked and swayed as people crawled up and children yanked at the side planks.

It was my final week in Quito after nearly two months of intense Spanish tutoring. Four hours a day, every day, one-on-one with Jois. We had spent so much time together we had become siblings.

“What will you do if I’m gored?” I asked her.

She rolled her eyes. “Por Dios, my little brother is out there.”

I turned around. Sure enough, there he was. The little 12-year-old hovered near the fence and then darted across the corral in front of the bull. The bull’s eye caught him and he gave chase, his hooves flinging wildly about his sides as he galloped. The boy swerved and leaped to the fence just as the bull swept under his heels. Jois raised her eyebrows and smiled.

I jumped down and joined a band of men inside the corral. We boldly approached the bull holding hands. The bull shifted his horns and we scattered like frightened schoolgirls over the fence. After a few such displays we celebrated our bravery safely outside of the corral. After my intense language immersion I could finally speak and laugh with them.

“Give the gringito some beer!” one of them said.

A man poured a warm foamy stream of Pilsner into my mouth. As it gurgled down I felt proud to be melting into their culture. Only in Latin America can something like this happen.

Waiting for a bullfight outside of Quito.

Finding a Spanish School

My travels in South America began in Bolivia. I had no itinerary but knew at some point I would need to enroll in a Spanish school before I returned to my University in the fall. I needed to be fluent for the following spring, when I would be attending a University in Chile.

I quickly discovered that all the information I needed could be easily attained by striking up a conversation with anyone with a heavy backpack. This is the stream of travel culture that anyone who has been on the road knows. If there is a golden rule for travel in foreign countries; it is to always wear a smile and talk to everyone. In South America Israelis seemed to be gold mines of information. There is a dense network of them throughout the entire continent, and they all seem connected to a massive sea of information hovering above everyone else’s head.

“You want school, what school?”

“A Spanish school.”

“To learn language?”

“Yeah.”

A group of them would gather and discuss the problem in Hebrew.

“Okay, you go to Quito. Very cheap and good and the instructor girls will fall in love with you. They say the best might be in Colombia but it is not so cheap. You go to Quito yeah?”

After hearing this advice from numerous sources I had my mind laid out. After a brief journey through the mountains of Peru I hopped on a bus to Quito to begin the study portion of my trip.

In Quito, as in every other Latin American city, the best way to find a Spanish school is to check the message boards at the hostels, or to ask the staff. Finding the major hostels is fairly easy: simply search websites such as www.hostelworld.com or www.hostelbookers.com. Using these websites is also useful to the traveler whose schedule changes often and who does not wish to book in advance. You can go onto the websites and research average prices before arriving in a city to ensure that you get a fair price. Knowing the average price also gives you bargaining leverage if you end up in a hotel during low season and the tenants are flexible.

The hostels often have business relationships with the Spanish schools and will be eager to point you in the right direction. Spanish classes cost between four and ten dollars an hour, depending on how long you plan to study and the reputability of the school. Many of the newer or smaller schools have significantly discounted prices because they do not yet have the reputation of the larger schools. Many will offer extra incentives, such as cultural tours, salsa lessons, or even offer classes at jungle lodges in the Ecuadorian rain forest. Schools include: Colonial Spanish School and The Quito Spanish Institute. Quito is a terrific place to learn because almost nobody speaks English.

Street vendor in Quito.

Working and Volunteering

The bolder the traveler the more inventive his or her source of income will be. Most seek internship programs or teach English—both excellent options in Ecuador. The language schools seem to always be looking for native English speakers and it is not too difficult to get a job, although you might not get rich from the pay. The more qualified you are the more your income and job security will be, but often native speaker status is enough to get you hired. At my Spanish school the coordinator offered free Spanish classes in exchange for teaching English classes. When I said no he offered to pay me. Every week new notices were posted at the hostel message boards looking for English teachers and private tutors.

If you are looking for a more exciting way to acquire income, be imaginative. The most telling examples came from travelers I have met on the road. One guy from New York took two weeks of salsa lessons and then became a salsa teacher himself at one of the salsa schools. They hired him because he could give lessons to the English-speaking customers. As long as he remained one step ahead of his pupils he made a great teacher. I met an Australian girl who was having the time of her life sailing from Cartagena to Panama City and back just about every week, and getting paid for it. The captains needed tourists to fill their boats and therefore needed English speakers to go to the hostels in order to recruit them. She filled a well-defined need and made good money doing so.

I chose an alternate route. I met an intern for Viva Travel Guides in a bar in Quito. He told me the company was always looking for writers to do freelance work for their website. The offices are based in Quito, so I set up an interview with the editor. I gave her some travel articles I had written for a school newspaper and told her which locations I could cover for her. She gave made the job. The point is to be creative and be aware of one of your most valuable assets: your ability to speak English.

If earning money is not a priority you may think about volunteer work to help pass the time or to extend the length of your travel. Volunteer opportunities in Ecuador are diverse and substantial. From working with wildlife conservation on the Galápagos Islands to teaching English in the Amazon, the opportunities are vast. Programs include: Global Vision International, www.ecuadorvolunteer.org, and The Global Volunteer Network.

Shaman in Ecuadorian Amazon.

Finding a Place to Live

By the time I reached Quito I had been backpacking South America for two months, but life in this city still astonished me. I arrived at two in the morning and left the bus station on foot to begin exploring. A band of mangy strays followed behind me and before I left the reach of the station lights a cab driver waved me down and told me I was guaranteed to be robbed if I walked from the station at night. He took me to a nearby hotel and I banged on the door until the sleepy tenant appeared. I tried to bargain a room but he was too tired and angry that I had awaken him to budge on the price. He led me through the stairwells with a lantern and showed me a cold little room on the roof, whose thin doors shuttered when the wind blew.

The next morning I went searching for a residence and found a cheap hotel in the old colonial center for four dollars a night on the condition that I stayed more than a month. It had a large bed and a balcony overlooking the bustling streets where schoolboys played soccer every night on the cobblestones.

If you are staying in Quito I suggest living in Old Town, where the buildings are beautiful and you wake every morning to heavy cathedral bells and the bullhorn wailings of the fruit vendors. Most foreigners stay in New Town—in the Mariscal district—which does not quite have the ambience of the colonial center. It has more amenities and is closer to the action but also has a much higher crime rate because of the amount of foreigners that do stay there.

Saving Money in Ecuador

One thing Americans will love about Ecuador is that they do not have to exchange money because Ecuadorians use Unites States currency. Another thing to love is that Ecuador is very cheap. This was convenient because I was very poor. Most people, even on the most frugal of budgets, will get along just fine. I was on a budget of 15 dollars a day, and that was without subtracting money for my Spanish School and hotel. So I came up with interesting ways to save money.

The first rule of budgeting in Ecuador is to always bargain. No price is ever set. To get a cheap cab thumb one down and tell him your destination and ask a price. Half that price and if he won’t do it thumb down another cab. If they won’t do it, thumb down another, steadily increasing the price from the original half until someone accepts.

For food, eat the set meals. They are always generous portions and always include soup beforehand and usually come with a drink. They cost around $1.50 and with a little searching about you will find the most popular places. The Chinese restaurants are another good choice for cheap good food, but be careful and only order half plates. The full plates are usually enough for an entire family.

If you like to cook go to the open air markets and bargain fresh produce and meat from the colorfully dressed indigenous folk. Set breakfasts are rarely satisfying, so swing by the panaderías for freshly baked pastries. I personally prefer cornflakes, which I found easy to carry even when traveling. I carried a plastic bowl and a bag of powdered milk along with me. I cleaned the bowl each morning with hand soap, mixed the powdered milk with water and had an American breakfast wherever I went.

You can almost always bargain for you accommodations. Never accept the first offer and have a look around before deciding on any particular place. Always ensure that the water is hot if they advertise hot water and, if you are uncomfortable in dirty rooms, ask to have a look at the bed before you commit to anything.

Traveling in Ecuador is cheap and relatively easy. Prices run around a dollar for each hour of travel, and some companies offer snacks and juice drinks for rides over seven hours. Most distances in Ecuador can be covered in less than eight hours, and there is no need to worry about food or drinks. Every time the bus slows down a band of street merchants will run alongside and hop on the bus to sell you anything imaginable, from cold coca-cola to hot chicken to traveling toothbrushes and "miracle" medicines. Most long distance buses have regular bathroom breaks if there is no bathroom on board (which there usually is not) as well as meal stops at restaurants where you can get typical Ecuadorian fair. You can catch a bus at the station, or by standing along the road that runs to your destination and flagging one down. Destinations are always posted on the front windshield and drivers will stop if the bus is not already full. In fact they will stop regardless of whether they are full, so you may have to be prepared for a standing journey if you plan to travel this way. Also do not expect buses to be on time. Nothing in Ecuador is ever on time.

Getting your clothes washed is easy and cheap enough. Lavanderías are scattered everywhere and most hotels and hostels have a laundry service. Due to my low budget I invested in a bucket and bought laundry soap from the supermarket. I filled the bucket with hot water from the shower and hand-washed my clothes, stringing them to dry on the rope I strung across the rooftop of my hotel.

Cheap sweet fruity wines are popular among Quiteños, but good wine only comes imported and can eat away at your dollars. Beer, however, is cheap and good, usually coming about a dollar a pint if you buy on the street. You can save even more money by returning the bottles for credit.

Quito has a spectacular nightlife to suit every taste. In the Mariscal district of New Town you can find flashy salsa clubs, grungy rockero bars, or lively gringo haunts where only English is spoken and cheap drinks are served to accommodate backpacker budgets.

If you are not carrying a cell phone this is no big deal. Nearly everywhere you go you will find someone with a little sign advertising phone calls. They will lend you a cell phone and charge you a cheap rate on the call you make. The Internet is widely available.

Visa requirements are simple for Ecuador and can be attained for free at the airport or any border crossing.

Quito from above

Words of Advice

Whatever happens, do not panic. Traveling in South America is full of rich surprises. Something will inevitably happen everyday to startle you. As long as you have a tranquil air about you things will be fine. Having traveling insurance is a wise decision. Companies like STA Travel provide affordable and extensive plans for students.

Robbery is a very real danger, especially when traveling alone in many parts of South America. I have been robbed numerous times, even at gunpoint. Once again, the key is to not panic. It is a good idea to carry a hidden pouch on you with your most essential possessions, as well as a decoy wallet in case you do get robbed. A decoy wallet should have an old, deactivated credit card and a little bit of cash. Never fight off a robber or resist. This will usually result in a physical attack. The robber should be appeased by your decoy wallet and may not harm you as long as you comply with his wishes.

The best advice I can give to any traveler is to become involved in organizations like www.couchsurfing.com or www.hospitalityclub.org. These are world-wide networks of travelers that offer free accommodation to one another, as well as organize events and gatherings. I have “couchsurfed” over 80 times in more than 20 countries and have yet to have a bad experience. I have been met with nearly mythical hospitality from every one of my hosts and have gained access to cultures that would have been impossible in any other way.

Unfortunately any traveler is inherently relegated to an outsider’s prospective. When you stay in the home of someone who was born and raised in the place you are visiting, however, an entirely new world is revealed to you. These experiences have helped me gain a deeper and more meaningful understanding of the places I have visited. All of the questions you have about the idiosyncrasies of a culture suddenly have someone qualified to answer them. You find yourself surrounded by locals rather than other travelers, and meet people who seem to have crawled out of well-written novels.

The networks also serve as cure for the loneliness that overwhelm so many travelers. These networks instantly give you friends in nearly every nation in the world.

The message boards are a great way to find traveling companions for weekend sojourns or even extended trips. They also are unequaled for information gathering. Using message boards, almost any questions you may have about a location can be answered by the locals themselves and questions you have about traveling in general—whether regarding what to pack or how to find a job—can also be answered

Learning Medical Spanish in Costa Rica

One of the AEC Turrialba outdoor classrooms in Costa Rica.

Finding and Committing to a Language Program in Costa Rica

After learning about the importance of cultural sensitivity in my Sociology of Medicine course, I decided that in order to most fully relate to my patients, I would need to speak in a language they could understand. I took four years of Spanish in high school but did not choose to continue the language in college; therefore, a course in medical Spanish naturally seemed the best way to refresh my conversational skills while also developing my ability to translate medical terminology. Armed with a strong sense of purpose and a $3,000 scholarship grant for an academic pursuit, I set to work finding the ideal medical Spanish program for my needs and goals. I punched various combinations of search terms into Google, clicking on any remotely interesting result. I quickly realized that the Internet is a vast repository of study abroad resources just waiting to be tapped. One particular program stood out to me: the Adventure Education Center’s Deluxe Medical Spanish program in Costa Rica. The Center’s offerings of small classes, program excursions, and a host family stay were a combination I could not resist.

Before I could commit to the AEC Medical Spanish program, I needed to do some more homework. First, I emailed the program director asking for the contact information of previous participants. This proved to be a key step first in deciding whether to commit, and then also in choosing in which of the three Costa Rican locations I would study. After numerous positive testimonials arrived in my inbox, I was confident that an AEC program would be worth the trip. Next, I had to make sure that medical Spanish classes would not interfere with the summer internship I had already accepted at home. Thankfully, AEC allows its students to stay for as many (or as few) weeks as they would like; I successfully booked a 3-day orientation followed by two weeks of classes, which allowed me to return to the U.S. in time for my internship. Finally, in order to justify my receipt of the $3,000 grant, I needed to assemble a budget including all my expenses for the trip. Through with AEC’s program director, I learned the costs of a typical Costa Rican lunch, my bus fares to and from the program site, and a zip-lining excursion—among many other things. The research paid off when I received the grant and purchased my plane tickets to San Jose.

Preparing for Costa Rica

After purchasing my tickets, the first thing I did to prepare for my trip was to investigate which (if any) vaccines I should receive before entering Costa Rica. It is very important to take care of vaccinations as soon as possible once your travel arrangements are made, since certain vaccines are only effective if received a certain period of time before arrival. I explored the CDC’s Traveler’s Health website and went to my school health center to receive vaccines for hepatitis A and typhoid. Additionally, while I was there, the nurse prescribed malaria pills and a generic antibiotic to be used in case I contracted a bacterial infection. I never expected to get sick, but nonetheless I did come down with some mean Montezuma’s Revenge, which required an antibiotic to cure. Although I could have obtained the medicine fairly easily in Costa Rica, it was good to know that I had it on hand. I strongly recommend that anyone traveling to Central America bring both over-the-counter and prescription medication in case of sickness.

Besides taking these health precautions, I also prepared to encounter Costa Rican culture and to be immersed in the Spanish language. First, I wanted to bring a gift to my host family to thank them for housing me. I had no idea what would be appropriate, and so I asked the AEC program director, who advised me to bring something unique to my hometown. This proved to be great advice; my family devoured the assortment of packaged foods I brought them. In addition to preparing to meet my host family, I needed to refresh my Spanish-speaking skills. I had not taken Spanish classes in almost three years, so naturally I felt a bit unprepared and nervous. I reviewed my notebooks from high school, watched some Telemundo here and there, and wrote a bunch of letters to a friend in Spain (in Spanish) in order to re-orient my brain to think in the language. Whether or not these preparations actually enhanced my speaking ability in Costa Rica, they definitely relaxed me and eased my transition into a Spanish-speaking environment.

Handling the Transition

In order to cope with culture shock and eventually overcome the language barrier in Costa Rica, it is important to force yourself to speak in Spanish as much as possible while also remaining patient and maintaining a positive attitude. Never having spent more than a few days in a Spanish speaking country, I underestimated how alienated and discouraged I would feel when everyone around me spoke in a different tongue. When I first arrived for orientation in San Jose, I was too nervous to say anything more than “gracias” and “por favor” in Spanish; instead, I slipped into English with the program staff and looked forward to the arrival of more American students. A few days later, I boarded a bus to the small town of Turrialba where my host family would pick me up. I felt so nervous that I almost got physically sick on the bus ride--I dreaded stepping off the bus and having to speak Spanish in order to communicate.

Surprisingly, once I was forced to listen and speak in Spanish, I became increasingly comfortable and my fluency improved. I learned to listen carefully as my family members spoke and to answer them as slowly as I needed to, without feeling stupid or embarrassed. The more I relaxed, the easier communication became. In situations when I did not know the proper Spanish equivalent of a word I wanted to say, or when my host dad spoke a little too quickly for me to understand, I learned the value of asking questions: Perdon? (Pardon me?) Lo puede repitir, por favor? (Can you repeat that, please?) Que significa? (What is the meaning?). Additionally, I relied on gestures to supplement words; body language—largely universal across cultures—proved very useful in communication with los ticos. I chose to live in Turrialba over the other two locations offered to us because former students had told me that virtually everyone in the town spoke Spanish. I also hoped to gain speaking practice through living with a host family. In retrospect, I realize that while these two choices made my first few days in Costa Rica a little harder, they really helped maximize the improvement of my language skills over an incredibly short period of time.

Regina with her host mother, Yenory.

When you do become comfortable speaking the language and are motivated to go out and explore town, you need to remember to exercise caution. I first studied abroad in Bath, England, where safety was not nearly as much of a concern as in Costa Rica. Although my teachers and host family reassured me that the Turrialba streets were safe to walk, I did make sure that I looked alert at all times. The Costa Rican people, also known as ticos, are amazingly friendly and always willing to talk. Costa Rican men--and Latin American men in general--tend to freely voice their opinions about pretty girls on the street. A few times a group of guys approached me and my classmates as we walked into the center of town, yelling things like guapas and various other expressions that I am glad I could not understand. On one hand, it was flattering, but on the other hand, I realized that we stuck out like sore thumbs and the guys probably recognized us as tourists. Thankfully, I never carried more money on my person than I would need that given day; additionally, I kept my passport, plane tickets, and debit card locked in a drawer at my host family’s house. When I did need to carry my passport, such as the day I went to the bank to pay my exit taxes, I carried it in a pouch that rested underneath my shirt. When exploring, I would recommend trying to go with friends, making a point to be aware of your surroundings, and carrying as few valuable items as possible.

Cultural Immersion in Costa Rica

The AEC Medical Spanish program facilitates cultural immersion by incorporating interaction with the locals and engagement with current Costa Rican issues into the curriculum. Each weekday began with four hours of personalized, one-on-one instruction in Spanish conversation and language. During this time, my professor would inform me about one particular aspect of Costa Rican society and would ask me to respond, giving my own opinion and also comparing and contrasting similar situations in the United States. For example, we spent one class discussing the changing role of women in Costa Rican culture. Whereas women typically maintain the household and raise children while the men go out to work, increasing numbers of ticas are seeking college educations and professional positions in the workforce. During the second week of classes, my professor tailored virtually every lesson to my own interests while challenging me to get closer and closer to fluency. After discovering that I played the clarinet, she took me into town to meet her father who happens to be the director of Turrialba’s community orchestra. I interviewed him about participation in the group and the financial challenges of providing instruments and funding concerts. Although I struggled with some musical vocabulary, I ultimately really enjoyed the experience of asking questions and responding to a native speaker. The unique integration of language practice and cultural encounter—a hallmark of the AEC academic experience—allowed me to learn a ton in a short period of time.

The combination of immersion and language learning also was of vital importance in achieving my goal of learning medical Spanish. Three afternoons per week, I took a 2-hour medical Spanish class taught by a physician (who spoke almost no English) and participated in different medically related activities. We took one particularly memorable trip to an orphanage just outside of Turrialba to interview the staff about the children’s medical histories and conditions. Many children end up in Costa Rica’s orphanages not because their parents have died, but because they have debilitating medical conditions that require expensive, round-the-clock care. Fortunately, other families (some Costa Rican, but largely European) who do have the time and means to care for such children often do adopt them. Normally, I would have expected that the children of teenaged mothers would largely comprise the populations of Costa Rican orphanages. Teenaged pregnancy is relatively common in Costa Rica, in large part due to the Catholic Church’s influence on the government and their recommendation that sex education begin no earlier than age 16. Abortions are extremely uncommon in Costa Rica, but usually babies born to teenaged mothers are cared for by the young woman’s family rather than placed in orphanages. In all aspects of Costa Rican life, family ties are of paramount importance and strength.

When not busy taking classes, I seized upon the opportunity to participate in recreational activities offered through AEC. The program fee includes one cooking and one dance class per week, both of which proved very enjoyable as well as being yet another way to learn about Costa Rican culture. Two trips to tourist attractions were included as well: one to Guayabo, a pre-Columbian archaeological site, and one to a Serpentarium filled with virtually every species of Costa Rican snakes. AEC is involved in a partnership with Explornatura, a company that runs various types of adventure trips in the lush Costa Rican wilderness: river rafting, canyoning, zip-lining, and horseback riding are just a sampling of the options. Participating in these afternoon excursions was a great way to leave the books for a while and see the gorgeous landscapes for which Costa Rica is so famous.

Regina at the Volcan Poas outside of San Jose, during orientation.

Pura Vida

Devoting two and a half weeks to studying Spanish and medical Spanish taught me so much more than language vocabulary. I learned the importance of leaving my comfort zone and confronting fears rather than avoiding them. Speaking Spanish whenever possible, while difficult, allowed for the development of a close relationship with my host family while achieving maximum improvement in my conversation skills. Additionally, thanks to AEC and my own determination, I gained a sense of Costa Rican culture that I never could have imagined. The combination of academic program, experiential learning, and community integration is one that can only be described as pura vida: literally translated “pure life,” or the Costa Rican equivalent of saying, “this is living.”

Lessons Learned My experience in Costa Rica has taught me: To gain inspiration through classes. I first became interested in medical Spanish through a Sociology of Medicine course. My final paper dealt with cultural sensitivity in medical practice; overcoming language barriers is a large part of bridging the cultural gap between doctor and patient. My desire to become a more culturally sensitive doctor led me to medical Spanish and eventually to AEC. To hear from previous participants. Talking to previous participants helped me to first decide whether or not to join up with AEC, and beyond that, which of the three locations to choose. To confront fears, rather than avoiding them. Using only gestures and speaking English whenever possible did nothing to quell my fear of speaking entirely in Spanish. I only improved and became more comfortable when I forced myself to speak the language. To do what the locals do, eat what they eat, and speak how they speak. Living with a host family proved instrumental in my experience of Costa Rican culture. To make study abroad work for me. Since I had already secured a summer internship back home in Philadelphia, I only had a few weeks during which to travel. Nevertheless, I was able to have an intense, enriching experience by maximizing time spent speaking Spanish, participating in one-on-one Spanish classes, and seizing upon excursion opportunities.

Study Abroad in Brussels, Belgium

I was recently asked in an interview “Why Belgium?” to which, with a grin, I shot back the answer “for the chocolate.” My reply offered thinking time to dwell on a more earnest response such as “seriously though, having taken a module in European politics I was drawn to Brussels as it is at the core of European decision making.” Truthfully, as a young, carefree, and admittedly rather naive first year student, the choice between Rome and Belgium had been a difficult one. Pizza or waffles? Pasta or chocolate? The allure of chocolate won out.

Now, however, I adore this charming little country (which could fit inside the U.S. 300 times), where some of the most famous “people” are TinTin and Hercule Poirot, and, arguably, their most famed landmark is a fountain of a urinating child. Yet the experience of studying, working and living in Belgium taught me so much more; it was a passage of enlightenment taking me from being a naive isolationist to becoming a true European.

Home Base: The University of Exeter in the U.K.

I chose to go to the University of Exeter as it was the only university in the U.K. where I could study Economics and Politics and still spend a year abroad. While all other universities required you to study (for example) Economics and Russian or Politics and Portuguese, this course allowed me to combine my passion for the social sciences (not languages) with an opportunity to experience another society and increase my cultural awareness.

I am fortunate to be one of over 1.5 million students who has benefited from the Erasmus programme. The European Commission offers each student a grant with the aim of increasing student mobility within Europe and promoting transnational co-operation projects among universities across Europe. While the benefit to the European Union as a whole is unclear, the experience greatly benefits individuals, who return from their year abroad more confident, independent, and with an enhanced C.V.

Vlekho Business School in Brussels

My home university is linked to Vlekho Business School in Brussels—a relatively small business school. Having since met people studying at other educational establishments in Belgium, I realize that the business school had both its positive and negative aspects. As a “hogeschool” (Dutch for “high school”), it does not have the prestige of other, more esteemed institutions, but it does offer a more friendly and welcoming environment that other higher education organizations may lack. It is important that each student assess what he or she is expecting from a university or college and researches as much as possible before embarking on the program. If you are seeking a larger university in Brussels, for example, you should ask your home university if you can do an exchange with Université Libre de Bruxelles, rather than simply accepting your placement at a hogeschool. I was very happy at Vlekho, where I could take modules which involved business management games—a very different approach from the theoretical and conceptual structures I had been taught at Exeter, and leaving me with a better and more rounded knowledge base.

Which Language to Learn? French or Flemish?

Once I had decided to move to Brussels, I took up a course at Exeter in Intermediate French (Brussels is 80% Francophone); but, as it turned out, to little avail. Belgium is a small country with something of an identity crisis—it has three national languages (French, Flemish, and a small minority of German). I had thought that my year aboard would help to increase my language skills, but unfortunately my preparation and research failed to alert me to the fact that Vlekho Business School was indeed a Flemish school, and that the majority of students would therefore speak Flemish rather than French.

Finding a Place to Live in Brussels

Brussels is a large city, over 160 km2 (62 square miles) and with a population of approximately 1,080,790, so finding a place to live was daunting. Once again, it is important to do some research and assess what you are looking for from your accommodations. Some students opted to live with a host family, which gave them a truly Belgian experience, while others rented an apartment (which had the downside of requiring a yearly contract despite the fact that we were participating in a 9-month program). You can find apartments in newspapers such as Vlan or De Sreekkrant. Another drawback of living in an apartment is that even if it is fully furnished you must provide your own mattress—something many students had not anticipated, and which proved somewhat difficult to obtain with no access to a private transport.

Personally, I opted to live in Quartier Latin, Brussels International Students Center, which had only just opened. As the name implies, it offers accommodations to students from all over the globe, and is a fantastic way to meet new people. The lodging was set in the beautiful building which was an old bank, and although when I moved in the center was not completely finished, over the course of my stay I saw many improvements, such as the addition of laundry machines and the television rooms. The people who ran the center were helpful and the rent was inexpensive. Being in the center of the city, It was also ideally located. In just a few minutes you could jog from the center to Brussels Park (Parc de Bruxelle in French or Warandepark in Dutch), the largest urban public park in Brussels—which is bordered by the stunning buildings of the Royal Palace of Brussels, the Belgian Parliament, and the U.S. embassy. In the summer, free parties are organized at the park every weekend.

In the Parc de Bruxelles with some friends.

Making the Transition

Initially, I had no Internet connection. In hindsight, this was probably a good thing, as instead of spending spare time staying in contact with friends at home I was able to immerse myself in a new life and concentrate on building new friendships. As I had left my university friends behind to graduate without me, I felt somewhat in limbo—not really part of the University of Exeter anymore, but not quite wholeheartedly throwing myself into this new experience either. It is important to fully embrace the study abroad experience with enthusiasm, and once the initial homesickness wore off, this is precisely what I did.

Studying in Brussels gave me amazing opportunities to meet other students from all over Europe and Latin America who had come together in this multicultural and cosmopolitan city. I do not believe that you can truly understand a nation and its people unless you learn its language(s), and, when I return to live in the Benelux I intend to complete an integration course in order to live as a Dutch person, rather than as a foreigner. While it was a shame that during the year my language skills did not improve—as the common language between us remained English—there was a reward it that I learned about cultural differences which shaped my understanding of the world around me. The opportunity to meet so many people from different countries also gave me the chance to confirm or challenge existing stereotypes.

Friends Philippa and Clare came to visit. Author is on the far right. We are standing in front of the Palace of Justice.

Living in Brussels: Practicalities

Regardless of whether you are an EU national or otherwise, if you are planning on staying in Belgium for more than three months, you must register at the local municipality (belgium.angloinfo.com/countries/belgium/residency.asp) within eight working days of arriving (usually this can be done at the local Town Hall).

When you arrive it will also be important to set up a bank account. Be aware that there may be a charge for opening and closing an account, though this might be dropped if you are a student. I banked with ING, as it was just opposite my school. One reason it is so important to have a bank account is that you will find that many stores, parking meters, vending machines, etc. use Proton, which is an electronic purse card. If you pay by cash for certain items, you may be charged more, and so it is sensible to have a Proton card.

For the student, another money saving tip is to register for a yearly travel card (at only 25€), allowing you to really get to see and know the city. However, this card is subsidized by the Flemish government, and therefore is only available for students studying at Flemish universities and hogeschools. Be aware that—as there are only a limited number available—they are only offered to students who are planning to stay in the city for a year, and therefore the station officials are required to see an annual renting contract. There are also only so many obtainable per day, and so it is important to start queuing early. I spent two days getting up at 5.30 a.m. to go to the station to get a ticket; on the third day I simply stayed up all night!

Regardless of the country you move to, there will be many small and seemingly unimportant yet frustrating questions you may have. Discovering the answers to these is all part of the journey; from a rhetorical “why is nothing open in a capital city on a Sunday?” to “where oh where can I go to get some ‘proper’ milk?” (for example, if in Brussels try a GB Supermarket).

Studying in Brussels

Unlike those who take a particular course, foreign exchange students have a lot more freedom to choose their modules, something I was used to given the nature of U.K. syllabuses. However, I was accustomed to choosing four modules each semester, instead of needing to make up 30 credits in many modules offering as few as two or three credits, as some classes would last as little as four weeks. Initially I started taking Dutch lessons, but unfortunately this clashed with a class that I needed to take as it offered more credits. It was very difficult for students to ensure that they obtained the correct amount of credits, so fortunately the tutor at my home university was very obliging, and allowed students to make up the difference with language classes or to take an extra exam after they returned to Exeter. My advice would be: if in doubt, ask questions. It was important to ensure that my home university was happy with any decisions so that I would fulfill the requirements in order to pass the year, and so I emailed my home tutor fairly regularly. However, I found that my best source of information came from fellow students, who were also trying to master the irregularity of their timetable.

I also found that examinations were completely different from those taken in the U.K. They ranged from an open book exam where you could take your study materials and notes into the examination, to an oral exam where it was imperative to remember all aspects of the course. This variation was reflected in my marks, from 100% for the open book exam to nearly failing the oral. If you are not familiar with spoken exams I would suggest practicing questions with a classmate. I found that having never experienced a spoken examination, my nerves hindered my performance.

An Internship in Brussels

In my second semester I opted to complete an internship to provide valuable work experience which I believed would not only enhance my employability, but would also offer a chance to experience Brussels from the perspective of a worker rather than simply from that of a student. In the first semester I had settled in, taken every opportunity to socialize and create new friendships, and had learned about Business Studies from an academic point of view (something which was a pleasant change from the Economics that I studied for the past two years). Now I wanted to experience the business world for myself.

In the summer before I left for Belgium, I bought the book Live & Work in Belgium, The Netherlands & Luxembourg, which listed some of the major employers in Brussels. As I knew that I sought a career within the financial sector, I sent my C.V. and cover letter to one of the large American banks listed in the book in order to enquire about internships. I also visited my host tutor who offered contact details for alumni from Vlekho who were working in banking, whom I subsequently contacted. Completing this internship has since given me “the edge” when applying for entry level jobs, as in addition to increasing my knowledge of the banking markets and products, it demonstrated my proactive attitude as I had sought out and undertaken a voluntary internship.

Work Ethic in Belgium

There appeared to be a different work ethic in Belgium compared to that in the U.K. Lunchtime is a time for socializing and eating, not for sitting at your desk, and if you are a 9-5 worker, then that is, literally, what you are. Belgians are recognized as being the most productive workers in the E.U., which surely makes them very efficient and effective during the actual time that they are at work. When compared to the hours actually worked by Brits, the actual hours worked by Belgians are significantly less.

Traveling from Belgium

A major advantage of living in a small nation such as Belgium is that there is the opportunity to easily visit neighboring countries. I took the coach from Brussels to Amsterdam to meet up with a friend, and I also took the train through Germany to Austria to attend my sister’s wedding. Moving so freely between countries has changed my idea of “Europe” as a concept. Previously I had thought of it as separate nations comprising a continent, but when there are no checkpoints on the roads between countries, and by train you may be in Belgium one minute and Germany the next, it is difficult to physically see where one country ends and another starts. Now that the U.K. is connected by Eurostar to mainland Europe, I feel that it is now more symbolically connected to the notion of Europe.

Although there is free movement of Europeans between countries, I do feel that mainland European countries are more united than the U.K. is to its counterparts. Geographical differences (when cycling in the south of Holland, you do not know when you have passed the border of Belgium) and language differences (English cannot be mistaken for another language in the way that Flemish and Dutch overlap) are less obvious. This distinction between defined countries blurs even more on the mainland as it uses a single currency, while us obstinate and unyielding Brits continue to use the pound and drive on the “wrong” side of the road. Nevertheless, I now see Britain as part of Europe, rather than simply as part of an open trade market. Having been born in the U.K., I consider myself fortunate to be able to have the opportunity and freedom to live and work in a continent that offers such a diverse variety of cultures—from the friendly and laid-back “siesta then fiesta” southern Europeans to the generally shy and more introverted northern Europeans. I began my journey of a year abroad as an uninformed and naïve student who thought herself to be “going to live in Europe for a year.” Now I consider myself a European with a greater global awareness.

I went to Belgium knowing only of its chocolates, waffles, beer and TinTin. The country does encompass these things, but it is also so much more. Brussels radiates a calm sense of craziness, where visitors go on pilgrimages to seek out a statue of a boy that urinates, where cartoon characters line its walls and fully grown men read comic strips on their way to work; and where the citizen’s jobs require them to debate how straight a banana may be or to deliberate exactly what constitutes butter. This eccentric city expanded my understanding of the world around me, broadened my horizons and taught me to be more socially accepting (in my final year at university I acted as a mentor to incoming Erasmus students). Belgium itself is currently politically unstable and yet Brussels is the political heart of Europe. In a country so confused about its very own identity, I found that I was able to define mine.

Study Abroad in Paris, France

Deciding where to study abroad is both an exciting and challenging step. You have a lot to consider, from local culture to the cost of living. While a recent shift shows many students are exploring new destinations for their time abroad, traditional cities such as Paris remain popular for their perfect blend of prominent local culture and international atmosphere. If Paris is on your list as a place to visit, here are some tips from Study Abroad Paris: Your Complete Guide to an Amazing Study Abroad Experience, a guidebook for getting you started on an exciting, overseas adventure:

Preparing for your Semester

We know what you’re thinking: the thought of leaving the comfort zone of your university, friends, family, even your country and native language to spend a semesterliving in Paris is intimidating. Don’t worry; it’s the exact same feeling that over 200,000 of your fellow university students experience each year before studying abroad. We can only say it’s a decision you will not regret.

When To Go

There are two main semesters: First semester (early October to mid-January) and Second semester (early February to mid-May). Many programs designed for international students finish in December as opposed to January, allowing you to return for your spring semester to the United States.

Fall is an excellent time to go to Paris. The weather is still good and most of the summer tourist season has finished. With most French students also starting classes, this is a great time to meet local residents.

Winter is a good time to visit the museums and some of the top sites in the city, because the lines and crowds at most attractions are at a minimum. Summer is very popular for students and tourists. Days are warm and sunny, and attractions and transportation schedules are in full operation. However, keep in mind, most French students will be on break; therefore, you’ll probably be studying with a majority of international students.

Cost

Money is an important issue for any college student. Consider enrolling directly with a university in Paris (this option is not for everyone since there are more administrative steps to go through and you may need to be fluent in French). French universities are inexpensive. You will have to pay administrative fees, which can vary from €170 (about $220) to €900 (about $1,170)—the fee increases with the level of study, and, if applicable, a subscription to “sécurité sociale étudiante” (roughly €190 or $247).

If you do decide to go with a program provider in America, an average semester program in Paris is $12,500. A summer semester is $6,000. These costs are only examples and vary by program. While $12,000 is not cheap, keep in mind that it includes tuition, which is typically at least 12 credit hours or more per semester, housing, excursions, and often some meals (if you’re with a host family, typically breakfast) as well as staff services on-site.

Most universities suggest a budget outside of school costs and airfare of about $950-$1,250 per month to cover your housing and living expenses. However, it’s very easy to spend more than double that if you live in an apartment in the city center, eat out often, go to bars, clubs, concerts, and travel frequently. Here’s an idea of some basic costs: Meal at a restaurant: $16-$26, meal at a restaurant universitaire: $3.50, metro ticket within Paris: $1.80, monthly metro card for Paris (Carte Orange): $69, movie ticket: $8-$12, cup of coffee: $2, baguette: $1.05.

Housing

While housing may be included, you should understand your options. From renting a private apartment to living in dorms, or with a host family, Paris offers all types of long-term accommodations. Each arrondissement of Paris has nice areas in which to live. The most desirable locations, although not the most affordable, for international students are the more lively sections of the Marais in the 4th arrondissement, the 5th near many of the universities and the 6th, which is expensive though very nice.

Dorms and Residence Halls

Visit www.ciup.fr for more information on student dorms at the large Cité Internationale Universitaire. Check the following websites for more information on private student residence halls: Estudines: www.estudines.fr, Logétude:www.logetudes.com.

Private Apartments

Renting an apartment in Paris is a dream for many students, although it’s also the most complicated option if trying to arrange it from abroad. You will have to pay a deposit, sign the right contract, etc. To find an apartment, try the paper De Particulier à Particulier, which has a great classified advertising section. There’s a paper version published every Thursday. With the online version, www.pap.fr, you can select what kind of rental you’re looking for based on several criteria, including short or long-term rentals. Both the paper and online versions are full of ads placed by homeowners; there are no intermediaries and no agencies, so there are no extra fees. If you need assistance you won’t have trouble finding a housing agency to guide you through the process.If you’re willing to pay their fees try www.fnaim.fr, for example. To keep housing costs down, you can also check the following websites for more information on sharing an apartment in Paris: www.colocation.fr or www.appartager.com.

Before you Arrive

This may sound backward, but don’t make your airfare an afterthought. Most semester-long study abroad programs do not include airfare, which, along with visas, is your responsibility. Take advantage of youth fares on Air France’s website. Select “more options” when searching for a flight. You can then change passengers from “adult” to “young adult,” which, if available, shows youth-discounted fares. Visit www.airfrance.com. Also, check Icelandair (www.icelandair.com) for fares from the United States to Paris with a free several-day stopover in Iceland. A dip in Iceland’s famous Blue Lagoon or a visit to a black sand beach is always a great way to begin or end your semester abroad.

If you have a visa that allows it and want more flexibility on your return date, it may be possible to buy an open-return ticket (sometimes, you need a fixed roundtrip ticket to obtain a visa, check with your consulate), allowing you to select the date of return after your arrive in Paris. This can solve any overlapping time problems that may occur during your semester abroad.

Also, visit www.studentuniverse.com and www.statravel.com for discounted flights and travel insurance.

Once you arrive in Paris

Try to get any administrative requirements done as soon as you arrive in Paris. There are several websites designed to help foreign students in Paris when they arrive:

We do not recommend bringing thousands of dollars to Paris, but having €200-€300 upon arrival is helpful. Withdrawing cash at an ATM (with a debit card) is the best way to get a good exchange rate. Check with your home bank about withdrawal limits and fixed international withdrawal fees. You can find some ATM Locations in Paris at www.visa.com. Search “ATM locator international.”

Paris is a relatively safe city. Compared to most large U.S. cities, Paris has significantly less violent crime. On the other hand, Paris is a huge metropolitan center and gangs, guns, and drugs do exist. Areas where you should be slightly more cautious (especially at night) are the 18th and 19th arrondissements. In addition, inside the Metro and RER (suburban train) stops, Republique, Stalingrad, Gare de Lyon, Oberkampf and Châtelet-Les Halles are several places you should be more cautious. Also watch your belongings on metro line 1 and on the RER B from Paris to the airport.

Transportation

Paris has undoubtedly one of the world’s best public transportation systems. With the Metro, RER, bus, tram, and taxi, no Parisian address is too far from affordable public transportation. When you arrive, consider purchasing a Carte Orange monthly pass. It gives you unlimited access to the entire public transportation network of Paris, as long as you stay within the zones you chose at the time of purchase. Costs start at €52.50 (about $58). If you plan to stay at least a year, consider the annual Carte Imagine’R transportation pass. It’ll save you even more money.

If you’re planning travel throughout France during your stay, but you’re not ready to purchase a full train pass, the SNCF card 12-25 is a great value. Once you purchase this card [available at any Parisian train station for €49 (about $64)], you can use it when you purchase train tickets (unlimited trips) to receive a discount, up to 50 percent off your ticket. Don’t forget to bring a passport size photo and valid ID when you purchase the card.

Socializing

Academics are important, but you didn’t choose to study abroad just to study. While in France, you can have a unique and exciting social life. You just need to know where to look. Here are two organizations that organize parties, outings, social events, and trips for international and French students: Le Club International des Jeunes à Paris (CIJP).

Parisian Events and Culture

One of the biggest advantages of living in France’s largest city is the yearlong selection of entertainment and events. From fairs and festivals, to movies, theaters, cabarets, clubs and sporting events, Paris is truly the cultural capital of Europe. Metro is a free daily newspaper in French that includes news and culture articles. Metro also has a guide for exhibitions, concerts, and movies. Lylo is an essential tool for live music aficionados. It lists all the concerts in Paris and its suburbs no matter what type of music you’re after: electronic, jazz, rock, reggae, or world music. The Parisians also buy the Pariscope or L’Officiel des Spectacles, both of which list weekly events.

Your student card can be used for discounts throughout France, from opera and movie theater tickets to transportation passes. Some huge discounts are also available at the Kiosques Paris-Jeunes. These special ticket desks are reserved for people under the age of 28 living in Paris. They offer discounted and free tickets for plays, sporting events, movies, concerts, and exhibitions. In addition, some venues such as theaters, classical concert halls, and the opera houses offer huge discounts on tickets just before the show.

Studying abroad in Paris can be expensive and challenging, but with the right preparation and information your semester abroad may be the most rewarding experience of your university career.